Wine Tasting, May 29th, 2019


In the world of fine art, a Triptych is a three-panel image, often presented in large format display. Our tasting this week will reflect a similar concept, in presenting three individual wines of special prestige, from a single producer. I had the pleasure to visit Lopéz de Heredia in July of 2017, and the occasion remains among my most treasured wine experiences.


As Neal Martin describes below, the winery is very traditional in operations, with the welcome foyer being the most modern aspect of the whole winery. Barrels are produced at the winery’s own cooperage, hundreds of which are squirreled away in the deep caves of the Bodega. Bouncy black cellar mold lines the walls, and a sweet funky odor wafts in the subterranean air. Truthfully, the taste of the wines reflect this cellar terroir, as is the case with all wineries, clean or rustic.


One notable aspect of their winemaking is that the barrels are not new, at least for wines that are destined for market. Pressing juice is used to neutralize the wood, with at least three years for the new oak. Coconut and dill are common terms used for “American Oak” notes with Lopéz de Heredia wines, although my suspicion is that these aromas come more from oxidation, than from Lactone impact itself. Other producers may use some portion of new oak, either American or French, but the practice is varied. As with every region in the wine world, traditions and “classic styles” are ever-changing, and often beyond straightforward condensation.


Regardless, in the case of Rioja, the results are consistently delightful, as the wines from this week will surely indicate.